I’ve been trying to set up curriculums and lesson plans, but it’s easy to get distracted here even though there’s really not much, in general, to do. We just went a good day ½ without any power, and that’s an indicator of no work getting done. The volunteers mostly sit around and play board or card games, or organize trips into town to buy ice cream and liquor (though women aren’t allowed to buy alcohol here, so I have to hang back).

On Friday, the Japanese ambassador came to Xavier for a ceremony celebrating the erection of a solar power/solar wind generator. The ceremony was nice, complete with bottled Aquafina water (in a place where “expiration date” and “keep refrigerated” are literally just suggestions at best, high quality bottled water is extremely rare). Interestingly, the generator does no real work for us and is only used as a learning tool/study light for the boys after the power goes out at midnight. Sustainability is a huge issue here – the price of diesel is high and rising, and as a result reliable island power is virtually impossible. Yet there is no concept of recycling or proper disposal of garbage. Litter is common, unlike an awareness for everyday environmental care. Even at the ceremony for the generator, Styrofoam cups were used as was petroleum in the truck we used to cart things to and from the field. Global warming is a very big problem for Micronesia, yet hardly anyone is educated in this subject. And while some Westerners complain about the lack of consideration given to environmental issues, there is hardly any effort made to teach students about it.

Saturday afternoon, Sam, Joe, Robin, Steph, Sammy and I took a hike up to Witipwon – a gigantic mountain which overlooks most of Weno. The trip up there was extreme – after passing Xavier’s million gallon water tank, we entered straight jungle. We cut our own path through 7-8 feet tall grasses, vines and leaves with machetes and a samurai sword. Since we had no map, Sammy climbed coconut trees to keep us on track with the mountain. The blades of the grasses are exactly that – sharp-edged and burning, and as a result of walking through them for over an hour, my legs and arms are torn apart. Thankfully, there are no poisonous plants in Micronesia, or super-dangerous animals. Once on Witipwon, we spread a tarp over some dry rocks, chopped some wood from the coconut trees and built a fire. We fried some meat, drank coconuts, and watched the moon rise. Sleep was fitful, especially when it started to rain since we had no tent. It was worth it to watch the sunrise in the morning though – in addition to the bright clouds and purple haze falling all across the island, you can actually see storm systems moving in over the reef and across the lagoon. It just looks like a patch of cloudy air disturbing the otherwise calm waters, and it moves quickly. We saw a few rainbows and Robin chopped some coconut for breakfast before we made our way back into the jungle. We ended up getting lost and having to try to navigate across the very thick terrain, but somehow randomly stumbled upon the million gallon tank which was our virtual signpost to home.

Later that day after brunch, a few of us went to the Japanese dock in Sapuk to go swimming and snorkeling. Swimming isn’t necessarily popular on excruciatingly hot days since the water feels like a 70 degree bath. Still, it’s a beautiful clear, crystal blue and we were able to dive and see some coral and urchins. Snorkeling is possibly one of the coolest feelings – being able to breathe and swim easily underwater is so amazing and peaceful. Of course, while the boys wore swim trunks, I had to wear knee-length shorts and a t-shirt. They laughed about it, and I laughed along, but it’s difficult for me to accept things like that as “culture” and not view it as inherently misogynistic. Part of me wants to be totally radical and just ignore these traditions, but the other part of me is rational and trying to cope with the fact that thinking only in Western terms is incredibly egocentric. Apart from which, I have to keep in mind that most Micronesian clans and cultures are historically matriarchal, but the arrival of Christians changed their way of life. The female modesty scene comes for a patriarchal Protestant background, not at all anything Micronesian. To combat this, I’m trying some subtle approaches such as having my senior literature class read things like “Civil Disobedience,” “Antigone,” and The Bell Jar. Not the most revolutionary reads, but I’m trying to instill a sense of questioning and provide a new way of thinking. I don’t necessarily plan on changing anyone’s mind or way of life, but I hope at least to plant some intrigue and uncover some power structures at play.