Monday, August 24, 2009

I’ve been trying to set up curriculums and lesson plans, but it’s easy to get distracted here even though there’s really not much, in general, to do. We just went a good day ½ without any power, and that’s an indicator of no work getting done. The volunteers mostly sit around and play board or card games, or organize trips into town to buy ice cream and liquor (though women aren’t allowed to buy alcohol here, so I have to hang back).

On Friday, the Japanese ambassador came to Xavier for a ceremony celebrating the erection of a solar power/solar wind generator. The ceremony was nice, complete with bottled Aquafina water (in a place where “expiration date” and “keep refrigerated” are literally just suggestions at best, high quality bottled water is extremely rare). Interestingly, the generator does no real work for us and is only used as a learning tool/study light for the boys after the power goes out at midnight. Sustainability is a huge issue here – the price of diesel is high and rising, and as a result reliable island power is virtually impossible. Yet there is no concept of recycling or proper disposal of garbage. Litter is common, unlike an awareness for everyday environmental care. Even at the ceremony for the generator, Styrofoam cups were used as was petroleum in the truck we used to cart things to and from the field. Global warming is a very big problem for Micronesia, yet hardly anyone is educated in this subject. And while some Westerners complain about the lack of consideration given to environmental issues, there is hardly any effort made to teach students about it.

Saturday afternoon, Sam, Joe, Robin, Steph, Sammy and I took a hike up to Witipwon – a gigantic mountain which overlooks most of Weno. The trip up there was extreme – after passing Xavier’s million gallon water tank, we entered straight jungle. We cut our own path through 7-8 feet tall grasses, vines and leaves with machetes and a samurai sword. Since we had no map, Sammy climbed coconut trees to keep us on track with the mountain. The blades of the grasses are exactly that – sharp-edged and burning, and as a result of walking through them for over an hour, my legs and arms are torn apart. Thankfully, there are no poisonous plants in Micronesia, or super-dangerous animals. Once on Witipwon, we spread a tarp over some dry rocks, chopped some wood from the coconut trees and built a fire. We fried some meat, drank coconuts, and watched the moon rise. Sleep was fitful, especially when it started to rain since we had no tent. It was worth it to watch the sunrise in the morning though – in addition to the bright clouds and purple haze falling all across the island, you can actually see storm systems moving in over the reef and across the lagoon. It just looks like a patch of cloudy air disturbing the otherwise calm waters, and it moves quickly. We saw a few rainbows and Robin chopped some coconut for breakfast before we made our way back into the jungle. We ended up getting lost and having to try to navigate across the very thick terrain, but somehow randomly stumbled upon the million gallon tank which was our virtual signpost to home.

Later that day after brunch, a few of us went to the Japanese dock in Sapuk to go swimming and snorkeling. Swimming isn’t necessarily popular on excruciatingly hot days since the water feels like a 70 degree bath. Still, it’s a beautiful clear, crystal blue and we were able to dive and see some coral and urchins. Snorkeling is possibly one of the coolest feelings – being able to breathe and swim easily underwater is so amazing and peaceful. Of course, while the boys wore swim trunks, I had to wear knee-length shorts and a t-shirt. They laughed about it, and I laughed along, but it’s difficult for me to accept things like that as “culture” and not view it as inherently misogynistic. Part of me wants to be totally radical and just ignore these traditions, but the other part of me is rational and trying to cope with the fact that thinking only in Western terms is incredibly egocentric. Apart from which, I have to keep in mind that most Micronesian clans and cultures are historically matriarchal, but the arrival of Christians changed their way of life. The female modesty scene comes for a patriarchal Protestant background, not at all anything Micronesian. To combat this, I’m trying some subtle approaches such as having my senior literature class read things like “Civil Disobedience,” “Antigone,” and The Bell Jar. Not the most revolutionary reads, but I’m trying to instill a sense of questioning and provide a new way of thinking. I don’t necessarily plan on changing anyone’s mind or way of life, but I hope at least to plant some intrigue and uncover some power structures at play.

Monday, August 17, 2009

The Australians and I arrived in Chuuk Saturday around 3pm. Like Pohnpei, Chuuk is a beautiful island, but a lot less developed. Pohnpei is considered extremely luxurious among the volunteers, and now I also share this sentiment. Upon my arrival to the Chuuk airport, I was greeted with a mar mar (I THINK that’s the spelling?) which is a traditional Chuukese necklace, much like the Hawaain ley, weaved from flowers, fruits, and even things like money and boxes of candy. Mar mars are exchanged frequently, one of the occasions being one’s first arrival to Chuuk. The driver of the Xavier bus gave one to me made mostly of flowers, and Joe bought me one to wear on my head. Chuukese roads are hideous, but the drive from the airport was still absolutely incredible. The extreme and undiluted beauty of the island is offset by the extraordinary poverty, which really can’t be described even in terms of what is generally familiar in the states, and probably most of the West. As in Pohnpei, houses are generally small and flat-roofed made mostly of concrete and metal. Windows are boarded up with pieces of graffiti-sprayed wood while the houses themselves often remain partially open. Some of them are painted bright or pastel colors, similar to Spanish style homes, but the colors are usually faded and juxtaposed by unclothed children, sheet metal gates, trash, roaming, diseased animals, stagnant water, and the skeletons of cars. Sad looking stores dot the dirt road, usually only offering a small window inside a wooden or thatched shanty selling types of candy and cigarettes, but often out of water. Probably from my description the environment doesn’t sound so desolate and might even resemble a project area in Detroit or LA, but it’s nothing like that. There is a huge difference between not having access to certain resources and those resources not being available at all to begin with. For instance, it isn’t a question whether or not one can buy food, it’s the fact that there is no food to buy even if one had money. What’s interesting is that often I see small children coming to ask for food with no shoes (which isn’t a huge deal – shoes are generally not worn all the time anyway) or shirts, but they have a cell phone or an ipod. Western culture has certainly infiltrated this area in the way it does best – by accentuating the importance of the unimportant.

I was given another mar mar when I arrived at the school. They fade and die quickly, but I left them in my room and they still smell pretty nice. The room itself is nice, but very small and VERY hot. I share a bathroom with Lily, the school treasurer, and while most things technically work, the shower is more like a freezing cold, barely dripping faucet and the power shuts off around campus at midnight. I have a lantern in my room, but like most things here, it doesn’t work. The water is undrinkable, and because my boxes have not arrived with my Nalgene bottle, I need to drink filtered water out of a large pitcher instead. The geckos here are much bigger and much more prevalent as, apparently, are big spiders which thankfully I haven’t seen yet. Just as prevalent are billy goats and roosters/chickens which are EVERWHERE and crow at all hours of the day and night.
After arriving on Saturday, I walked around the campus a little and met Sam, the other new independent volunteer. Dinner was at 6 and consisted of rice, banana mash, chicken, and fish – heads, fins, and all. I ate everything I could – food is not as plentiful in Chuuk as on Pohnpei and since I’m used to snacking, I’m usually fairly hungry. Cake and ice cream were served after dinner for Tomi’s birthday, but this is rare. I spent some time trying to get to know the JVIs who arrived around 7. Everyone seems so close – I’m not fond of being the new person and trying to figure out how exactly to fit in (this is made especially difficult because everyone here is at least moderately religious). We went up to the roof from which the view of Chuuk, the ocean, and outer islands is absolutely gorgeous. Of course, after dark all you can see are millions of the bright, bold stars. They seem so much closer here. We drank sackao which is made out of mud and root and consequently looks and tastes like both things combined. It’s a very thick, brown gloopy mixture which contains clumps of sand and tastes like aged, dirty celery. The purpose is to go completely numb. On Pohnpei, sackao is made and drunk often – it’s a cultural icon. Not so much on Chuuk where the drink of choice is beer (Joe attributes much of Chuukese violence to alcohol consumption and not enough sackao which does not affect your motor and judgment skills quite like alcohol). The boys transported it via an old Clorox bottle (completely legal in FSM) and we finished the whole thing Saturday night. A few of us ended up playing cards until about 3:30 in the morning. I was glad to be completely exhausted since it’s hard for me to sleep with the heat and lizards.

Sunday we went to mass around 10am. The only reason I was even partially interested in attending the service was to hear it said in Chuukese. The chapel is a beautifully designed thatch building with white tile and opens on all sides, mostly right into the Pacific. Afterwards, the volunteers went to Sunday brunch at the school and then a few of us decided to trek downtown. Getting downtown is a long and arduous process. While there are “roads” in Chuuk, they are completely unrecognizable. They are mostly dirt paths full of giant potholes, enormous stones, mud, and lake-like puddles. Though downtown is only a few short miles away, it takes about an hour to get there. Not even halfway there, we incurred a flat tire, and noting that the spare was also flat, we called Xavier to come and collect us. We waited for about 2 hours and still no one showed. Some Chuukese came to talk to us and see what was going on. We walked a little to D.J.’s (a Xavier student) mother’s store and she gave us some water (which I’m hoping was ok to drink). With the help of several Chuukese and to the amusement of even more Chuukese children, we pushed the truck to D.J.’s house and walked an hour back to Xavier. The “shortcut” that Rey suggested to us led us up a steep and muddy pathway through the jungle. I was exhausted, but thankful to see the inside of the jungle. Coconut and breadfruit trees loom with their enormous palm leaves and while the air is saturated with a deep, moist heat, the shade from the trees and the wetness of the ground made for a cool and peaceful hike. When we finally got back to the school, I collected a few muu’muus (traditional Micronesian dresses) and skirts from Steph left over from Ellen and Katie, but I’m praying my boxes arrive either tomorrow or the next day. I’m in dire need of them.

Monday began orientation for the school year. I’m teaching sophomore and junior world history and senior literature. Martin also asked me if I would help out with drama. There seems to be a huge shortage of teachers, and I’m glad I can make the burden a little lighter, but three classes with multiple sections is a lot to handle. I began working on my curriculum and syllabus, but it’s difficult to find books that I like and think are important reading materials since there is such a huge shortage of books. We toured the campus and of course, went to mass. I’ll probably stop going in a few weeks much, I’m sure, to the chagrin not only of the school directors but of the fellow volunteers. Religion is a very integral aspect to Xavier and this is something with which I disagree. My feeling is that the purpose of education is to educate, and infusing your own personal beliefs does a disservice to the process. I would understand if there was a choice between a good religious school and a good public school, but this isn’t the case. Xavier is sought after my Micronesian students because it’s the best school – it has the most money, the most resources, and the most qualified teachers. Yet in order to receive a “proper” (what is still in my mind a pretty meager) education, one has to also abide by the religious aspects. A good education should not have to come at a price – people should educate because they believe in the development of individuals and ultimately of environments, not in order to satisfy a particular religious agenda. This is especially frustrating knowing that Chuukese were not always Christian and most of them still cling to their traditions which predate missionization.

We also made it into town on Sunday. Robin drove Rey, Hide, Sam and I to some stores downtown after we dropped some Chuukese Xavier workers at their house. I bought some water, a flashlight, and a DVD of Nip/Tuck season 5 for $4.00. We were out until after dark and missed most of the dinner food, but it was worth it to drive around. After dinner each night we mostly sit around playing cards or watching bootleg movies on TV. Tonight right before the power went out, Sammy found a huge crab scurrying around in his room and I had to get it out. I was surprised that I was the only one with crab experience.

Everyone is incredibly nice here, but amazingly, it’s still possible to feel lonely. I’ve noticed that things are very disorganized and it’s difficult to get things accomplished. Steph told me my room is prone to break-in attempts (I’m told I should be ok at night when I’m here because I can deadbolt the door) and that they would try to add some kind of reinforcement to the lock, but I’m guessing that won’t get done. I got my fan pretty quickly, but I really had to push to get people into town Sunday which turned out to be pointless anyway. People are very spontaneous here, which can be great but I’m a planner and I like things to be as efficient as I try to be. This is the wrong atmosphere for that kind of attitude. People mean well, but I don’t feel there is much of a work ethic. Additionally, people seem to take things as they come regardless of plans or what needs to get done. I’m trying so hard to learn the ropes – to buy things I need, figure out school stuff, get my laundry and room under control, but no one is really interested in spending too much time to help, usually dismissing it as “we’ll take of it later.” I often feel like a huge inconvenience because I’m used to things happening so quickly and on the spot. I know it’s a question of attitude and circumstance, and I don’t want to be aggressive. I just need to acclimate more maybe.

Speaking of which, I’m not looking forward to my first bout of sickness. Their second day here, the JVIs became incredibly ill with fevers well into the hundreds and an awful stomach bug. Greg assures that I WILL get sick soon and I’m fearing it. It’s hard enough to stand this heat and general dirtiness healthy, let alone on your deathbed.

Despite this, Chuuk is a beautiful place. I wish it was safer and easier to move around, but the views are absolutely out of this world. A lot of the time so far we’ve just been hanging out drinking out of coconuts trying to find things to talk about. I still feel like I’m on some bizarre vacation. The reality of spending a year here has not sunk in at all. I do miss home, but even more maybe I miss the capability of being in touch. Internet has been okay, but this isn’t usually the norm and when there is internet, there are so many people trying to use it that it’s impossible to have a private conversation. I have a cell phone, but it’s both expensive to call and difficult with the time difference. Hopefully I’ll start feeling more comfortable soon. It is an amazing place to be, I am just overwhelmed.
- L

Friday, August 14, 2009

Raan anim!

I wanted to write about the rest of my day before leaving for Chuuk tomorrow and having next to know internet capabilities. Greg arrived around 1:30 or so. He hired us a rental car and the aussies and I took off for Nan Madol. It was absolutely gorgeous - a really great intro to Micronesia. Nan Madol is comprised of ruins (we walked into a stone jail site) from a dynasty dating back to the 1500s. It's a really huge piece of Pohnpeian tradition, and we had to obtain permission, and pay a few, to the nan marquis (chief) and to the family who currently reside on and own the land.

The water in Nan Madol feels like warm bath water. Even at the mouth of the Pacific, the waves are very warm and very clear. Our shoes got swept away by the tide and we had to hunt them down among the reeds and quicksand.

On our way back, we stopped at a small carving store where I bought a necklace for $4. We momentarily got stuck in a torrential rain which I was afraid would last the rest of the night, but it ended abruptly, like someone had just turned off a faucet. I had a drink with the jesuits, and then went out to the Village with Greg for dinner. the Village is a restaurant and hotel, very fancy by Micronesian standards. There was no air conditioning, and like everywhere else, cats and dogs walked around freely, but the food was amazing. Apparently there's not much to eat in Chuuk, so I'm trying to get it in while I can.

There's much more to say, but I'm exhausted. I will try to write again asap... hopefully the internet is working at Xavier.

- L

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Pohnpei stopover

I am currently in Pohnpei, Micronesia residing at a Jesuit house with some brothers, priests, and other volunteers. I arrived yesterday around 2pm, PNI time. The flight itself was fine - just long - and all of the stops the Island Hopper makes can be exhausting in their own right. I departed at Majuro with Richard, an older Kosraen man I met on the 4am shuttle to the Honolulu aiport, who was on his way home with his wife and child (I often had to babysit the baby on the plane while his wife walked around or prepared her daughter's bottles in the bathroom). I made the mistake of also getting off on Kwajalein where I was ushered into a police/immigration building. I had to find an American officer and get escorted back on the plane. After that it was mostly smooth sailing. I was alone after Kosrae since Richard and his family departed, but it was only a 40 minute flight from there to Pohnpei. Soon I'll be picking up Greg from the airport as well.

I can't believe how hot it is here - hot and BUGGY. Last night while sitting on the upstairs porch, I was attacked by some kind of small crawly inch-worm like thing that goes under your clothes and just creeps around. Spiders, mosquitoes, geckos, and ants are everywhere. So far I've noticed a few different kinds of ants, one of which is small but bites with a vengeance. Feral dogs are also very common. They roam the streets and go in and out of houses more frequently, it feels, than people. I've been told the dogs at Xavier are friendly and loyal, but also vicious to trespassers.

Everything seems so dirty to me, but that's probably because I'm used to an overabundance of sterilization and cleanliness common in the states. Shoes are hardly ever worn, and the general population lives in extraordinary conditions. Poverty is overwhelming. Children are friendly, but sometimes not clothed and usually not washed. After walking down main street and visiting some stores, we walked to the JVI house and on the way I noted many doorless, shoddy houses made of stone, metal, and wood. In one of these, I noticed two people lying on an empty, concrete floor with no bedding. This morning while I was eating breakfast, two children came to the house asking if they could pick some of our oranges. They are allowed as long as they don't climb the tree, which presented a problem since the children were small and most of the lower fruit had already been picked.

The island itself is beautiful - the trees and flowers are out of control. Today we were hoping to Kepirohi, an extraordinary waterfall on the other side of the island as well as the Micronesian Nan Madol ruins, but it doesn't look like we will be able to find a car, and there's not much time now anyway since Greg arrives in about a half hour. I'm looking forward to hopefully seeing more of the island later on with him if we can, and of course I'm hoping to have time to explore Chuuk before orientation and training.

Wireless seems to be failing a little, so I'm going to sign off and get the status of Greg's arrival. I'll update again soon!

- L

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Intro

Hello all! :) Welcome to my blog (I've resisted them for so long, but the time has finally come for me to have one of these things). I intend to use this primarily to recount any and all adventures in Chuuk, FSM and beyond over the next year or two (depending on how much time they can squeeze out of me), but I'll probably make some room to talk about other thoughts, issues, etc. so hopefully you can bear with me!! Ideally, after my stint is up out there in Oceania, I'll be heading to other, equally interesting places that I can also discuss and potentially bore you with ;)

I am still in upstate NY for another 24 hours, so for right now I'm really just setting this up and hoping to build some anticipation! Additionally, many people have asked how to best reach me, so I'll list some helpful contact info below:

Email: lydiaocnnr@gmail.com (preferred), lydia.o@nyu.edu
Skype: lydia.r.oconnor
Address: Lydia O'Connor
Xavier High School
P.O. Box 220
Chuuk, FM 96942
Micronesia

I will also have a cellphone when I get there, courtesy of my uncle, but calls are pretty expensive so I don't expect that will be a prime vein of communication. I'm sure I'll be checking facebook pretty regularly as well.

That's about all for now! Check back soon for fun updates :)

- L